Then, like a director overlooking this stage, stands the Cristo Redentor high up on the Corcovado peak. To his left is the great historical center of town with a myriad of monuments and historical buildings from the glorious days of the 19th century, when Brazil was rich from the coffee boom and still bathing in the aftermath of the great gold rush of the 18th century. The 19th century brought many changes to Brazil, including its independence from Portugal and the end of its monarchy and formation of the Republic. All this happened right here in Rio de Janeiro. To the Cristo’s right is the famous Ipanema Beach, birthplace of Bossa Nova and home to many of the country’s rich and famous. All this history is present here in Rio…in the buildings, in the landscape and in the people themselves, who incorporate the traditional aspects of the city, while also encouraging its more modern, democratic traditions.

Not the least of these more democratic traditions is the popular festival of Carnaval, as much associated with Rio de Janeiro as Copacabana is. Carnaval is characterized by parades of highly costumed (or nearly naked) mulatas dancing to Samba rhythms, followed by elaborate floats that reach up to three or four stories tall, sparkling along the parade rout. There are also many private galas and small, neighborhood festivities.

Over the years, Rio has not ceased to attract people from all over the world. Surfers come to join a great community of like souls who practice on the many great beaches in town and to the south; artists come to setup their ateliers in the bohemian neighborhoods and wealthy playboys and debutantes continue to make Rio their home. Undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest cities, Rio de Janeiro, like Paris, Rome, or London, is a place of dreams and fantasies.

You’ll find Rio to be pleasant all year long, but the best time to visit is in the months leading up to and including summertime, from September to March. The rainy season begins around the end of February, but really hits in March and April.

Planning Your Time
With Rio’s de Janeiro’s recent bouts of violence and its overall reputation for crime, travelers are spending less and less time here than they used to. That’s a shame, because Rio is loaded with natural beauty, history, culture and attractions that continue to make this one of the world’s great cities. Some travelers are so enthralled by Rio, they return here over and over to spend their vacations. But if you’re set on breezing through Rio de Janeiro, it is possible to see most of the city’s highlights in about three days. That may not sound like much for a city this abundant, but remember that Rio de Janeiro is relatively small and compact and there are only three principal areas that attract visitors: this historic downtown, Copacabana, and Ipanema (unless you’re a surfer, in which case, you’d have to include Barra de Tijuca as a fourth). If you set yourself up in the Glória or Lapa neighborhood (where you can find reasonably-priced hotels) you’ll be close to the metro line and will be able to access just about everything in the city with ease. On the other hand, some of the hotels in Copacabana may provide the kind of luxury experience you’re looking for.

With that in mind, you’ll want to spend part of your time checking out the historical sites in the old downtown area. Some of the 19th century palaces, museums, and even coffee shops are spectacular. Take an afternoon walk along the Copacabana boardwalk and be sure to hit the high points (literally) of the city: the gondola to Pão de Açúcar and the view from the Cristo monument on Corcovado Mountain. These may require taxis to get to, since they lie just outside the main areas. Spend your evenings in Ipanema and Leblon with perhaps a happy hour in the Cinilândia area downtown. If you want to party, then a night in Lapa should probably be on the agenda. If you have a week to spend in Rio, then you’ll be able to relax on the beach, take a walk in the park, or go on a guided tour of a favela. If you like to shop, then you should reserve a day for those activities too.

Here are some of the sites in the downtown historical district. I’ll update this article with more sites, so come back to see the rest.

Historic Sites:

Sao Bento Monastery
Palace on Ilha Fiscal

From the principal viewing deck at the feet of the Cristo, you get a magnificent view of the city, from the Zona Norte (at the left hand of Christ) to the Zona Sul (at the right hand of Christ). He stands, more or less, looking out in the direction of Copacabana (justifiably where most of his attention is required). The monument was given some new features in 2000, including new lighting and new means of access to the top. You can now take one of the panoramic elevators up from the lower station, or take the high-tech escalator. If you prefer the original method, you can still climb the 222 steps, passing numerous souvenir shops and snack stands along the way. But first, you have to get up Corcovado Mountain to the lower platform and reception area. Access to the top of Corcovado Mountain is from the Flamengo neighborhood, where the streets begin their windy way up the hill. Many visitors take taxis up to the top (they are waiting at the bottom of the hill) or take one of the many vans that haul passengers in groups. The best way, however, is via the train that chugs up the hill from Rua Cosme Velho. The station at the bottom was also recently revitalized and contains shops, relaxation areas, and a photographic exhibition of the history of the monument. It costs R$20 and operates from 9am–7pm daily, the same hours of operation as the monument itself.

The official address of the train up Corcovado is Rua Cosme Velho 513 (21/2558-1329, www.corcovado.com.br).

But everything has to start somewhere, and I’ve begun with a review of the Hotel Florida, one of Rio’s mid-range hotels in a mid-city location between downtown historical Rio (to the north) and Copacabana and Ipanema (to the south). I like this hotel and remember it fondly as the first hotel I stayed in with my wife (then girlfriend) in Rio de Janeiro. I’ve also included a trip from Sao Paulo to Rio (or from Rio to Sao Paulo if you prefer) by car. This is something well worth doing if you’d like to see the two biggest cities in Brazil and everything in-between them.

Accommodations

Like most city hotels in Brazil, Hotel Florida is a high-rise building surrounded by other high-rise buildings. It’s not a slick, modern building, but one of the city’s older options. That makes it a bit more quaint, if a tad dusty and worn. Also, the rooms tend to be small in the older hotels (although all too often in the newer ones too), but you can count on good showers (with gas-heated water) and clean, comfortable bedding. Florida excels at service and location.

The Area

You can walk around near the hotel at night and check out the goings-on in the area. There are casual places to eat and drink within walking or you can catch a cab or metro to a more distant outpost. The hotel is wonderfully located in Flamengo, once the home of Brazil’s government and strategically located between downtown Rio de Janeiro and Copacabana.

My Impressions

I stayed at the Florida Hotel with my wife and we enjoyed being away from the Copacabana and Ipanema scene when we wanted to be. It’s not exactly out in the boonies (in fact, my wife saw some famous Brazilian musicians there). There is plenty of local nightlife nearby and you can catch the metro during the day to the downtown area or the beaches. A short taxi ride gets you to the Cristo monument. The service was excellent and the rooms were small, but well kept. This is an excellent option for families or couples.

Details

Aminities: Gym, pool, sauna, bar and restaurant. In room: TV, air conditioning, phone.
Prices: From $120 to $200 per night with breakfast included.
Location: Rua Ferreira Viana 81, in Flamengo
Phone: 21-2556-5242
site:windsorhoteis.com.br

The Road from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro
The road between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo is one of Brazil’s most traveled tourist destinations. Called the Rio-Santos road, the trip is perfect for many visitors who want to see the big cities of Brazil, some excellent beaches and tropical islands (including some that are touristy and full of beautiful people and others that are remote and deserted), and also a touch of the interior. You can rent a car and take the trip at your own pace, visiting the highlights that you set for yourself. In this article, I’ll try to answer some of the most common questions about this trip. I’ll add more as they come in, so this will be a work-in-progress.

The road between São Paulo and Rio is a popular road trip for tourists and Brazilians alike. It’s about 450 kilometers of coastline and takes you past some of the most beautiful beaches and beach towns in the country. The water gets greener and warmer the closer you get to Rio, but the beaches near São Paulo are not to be missed either — for their water sports, beautiful people and great boardwalks.

The road itself is in good shape, but it can get a bit windy along the mountain passes around the São Sebastião area, so take it slowly and carefully and enjoy the time.

While you’re in Sao Paulo, you can take the Walking Tour of Downtown Sao Paulo. Also, I’ve listed some good hotels in the Sao Paulo area in my article on The Accor Hotels. I always suggest starting in São Paulo and driving to Rio. This way, your trip will keep building and building to the end, saving the most spectacular for last. There are so many things to see and do between these great cities, that you may want to make the trip twice to get it all in. You wouldn’t be the first.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a lot of violence in this region?
Outside of Rio, there is nothing excessive and even inside Rio, the problems are mostly located in the Copacabana Beach area. Of course, you should always be aware and careful. Keep a minimum amount of cash on you and no significant valuables. Split up your cash and when you drive, leave as much in the trunk as possible (your bags, valuables, and credit cards).

What are THE best places for snorkeling?
I’d say that the top snorkeling on this trip would be around Ilha Grande and Angra dos Reis. It’s hard to say which of these is best, but I can say that Ilha Grande requires a bit more time and commitment. If you have the time, it’s totally worth it. If you choose Angra, then be sure to take a boat out to the islands AWAY from the mainland — so you get away from the Angra pollution. That said, there are some wonderful dives there.

The next best place would be the north coast around Ubatuba. There are some wonderful waters there and you can charter boats out for great snorkeling.

How are the roads in this area?
The BR freeways (called rodovias) are much faster and in better condition than the small roads. Also, this is a mountainous region and the roads can be difficult at times. I suggest sticking to the main estradas that will offer the smoothest ride. However, the roads in general in this area are well maintained and generally problem free. You have to get used to maneuvering in two-lanes of traffic is all.

How do Ilha Grande, Paraty, and Buzios compare?
These are all different from one another and Buzios is completely different than just about any other place on the coast. It’s a great place for adults and offers a lot of shopping, modern facilities, great hotels and lots of beaches — both crowded and secluded. You also have some economical options for hotels, so it’s not only for the spenders. A lot of Brazil’s TV stars can be seen at Buzios.

Paraty is an excellent place for tourists and provides a bit of the historical side of Brazil along with beaches and great restaurants. It’s a small town, but the best beaches are outside of town to the north or south. Don’t miss the waterfalls in Paraty, as well as the boat trips.

Ilha Grande is the most remote of the three. There are very few cars on this huge island and only one major town — called Abraao (Abraham). The town, hotels, and eating establishments are all very quaint and you can walk around town with no problem to take it all in. There are beaches all around the island and you can hike or take boats out to them. Some of these are among the prettiest in Brazil and offer great snorkeling, diving, and other fun activities. You really feel the island experience at Ilha Grande because of the lack of cars.

What is the best rental car service to use there?
Here’s a comment from one of my readers about that…”We used Unidas rent-a-car and they were great and about 50% cheaper than Hertz or Avis (12 day rental of a Chevy Meriva was $500, including insurance). It was practically new and they gave us an 800 number to call in case of problems. We booked them through Autoeurope.com.”

Is it worth going inland to Teresopolis?
Absolutely! Teresopolis has a lot to offer and is completely different than the coastal sights. The feature there is hiking and rafting and you should probably set this up ahead of time — like while you’re in Buzios or Rio — with one of the agencies that offer packages or trip planning. For most people 48 hours is enough, but if you’re really into hiking and rock climbing, you might want more.