The Brazil Travel Site

Arraial d’Ajuda: Northern Beaches

Walking up along the northern beaches is a must while you’re in Arraial. First, the beaches themselves are long and excellent for swimming–with clear, warm water that is generally shallow and calm. Plus, there are kiosks spread at intervals all along this part of the coast, many associated with some pousada or other (but the kiosks are always open to the public, so make yourself at home or, as the Brazilian’s say, fique a vontage). Some women even go topless on these beaches. The walk all the way to the top, which is marked by the Pousada Aquarela, is about six kilometers (two hours walking). Along the way, you’ll pass the Arraial Ecoparque, which has very little “eco” about it. It’s really just a huge water park with slides and attractions marketed to Brazilians visiting Porto Seguro on vacation packages. If you like the idea of exhilarating water slides, then check it out (you have to enter from the road on the other side). You’ll also pass the Praia do Delegado, which is full of beach barracas, chiefly, the legendary Barraca do Sting, which is an excellent choice for sitting and sipping a cold coconut water or something stronger. The beach in front of his barraca is an excellent choice for swimming, as the water is shallow and calm there. If Sting himself is around, you’ll see why he got his nickname; as he does, indeed, resemble the famous pop star. He serves great fish lunches and organizes boating excursions up the Santa Cruz River.

You can cut in from the beach to the inland road at the Barraca do Sting or any number of other trails along the northern beaches. If you go all the way to the end, you’ll cut-in at the Pousada Aquarela, right at the location of the ferryboat to Porto Seguro.

There is a northern road that parallels the beach from Arraial d’Ajuda to the ferryboat. Along this road are numerous pousadas and a few interesting shops, restaurants, and bars. The best place to come in from the beach and have look around is at the Barraca do Sting. Just inland from Sting’s place is the cozy Santa Fe Hotel, with an excellent restaurant/bar (open to the public, of course). There are also shops and art galleries in the vicinity. A late afternoon walk along the northern beaches is one of the best excursions you can take in Arraial. The wind comes up a little and blows the sand around your feet, as the tide goes way out, revealing the shiny, sandy ocean floor.

Arraial d’Ajuda: Southern Beaches

The main beach in Arraial is Praia do Mucugé, at the bottom of the Estrada do Mucugé just below the village. Due to its proximity to the village, it is by far the most popular and crowded of the beaches here. There are plenty of beach bars with plenty of beach chairs and umbrellas to keep the sun off. Some trees line the area around the Estrada and give the whole place a nice, relaxing feel. This is a great place to spend the afternoon after walking along the northern or southern coastline for several kilometers. A cold beer and a shady tree are just what you’ll be looking for. To the south (right) of Mucugé is the Praia Parracho, which is a bit more extensive than Mucugé, with its beach bars more spread apart. However, there are some large beach bars here, in the tradition of Porto Seguro and they can get rowdy during peak season. You can easily walk between these two beaches. The water here is not as warm or as clear as in other parts of the country, but on a sunny day in the summer months, it can turn a beautiful blue-green.

It’s easy to walk from Mucugé all the way to Praia Pitinga, about 1.5 kilometers (30 minutes) away. You’ll cross a small stream that empties into the ocean and several beach bars. Pitinga is the location of the town’s most charming and luxurious beachfront pousadas, and the beach bars along the way are also slightly higher end. Check out the Paraíso Restaurant with its wooden chairs and large sitting area. Also the São Tropez Praia Hotel has a large area with restaurants and bars. You can enter from the beach or from behind on land. The Cabana Grande is the largest beach bar in the area, a younger cousin to those in Porto Seguro. This one also gets rip roaring during peak season and is mercifully silent during the off season. The best place to stop for a drink is on the deck at the Pitinga Praia Pousada, marking the far end of Pitinga.

A much farther trek (about seven kilometers) is the stroll to Praia Taipe and the Lagoa Azul. The lagoa itself is dry, but the sandy cliffs, called falesias, make for a striking scene. The beach here is one of the most deserted in the area and is well worth a visit, as it’s also one of the prettiest. This is about the final point to which most people care to walk along the southern coast of Arraial. However, a few daring folks make the 14 kilometer haul all the way down to Trancoso. You’ll have to cross a few small rivers that empty into the ocean, but otherwise, it’s quite possible to accomplish in about five hours with a canteen of water, a hat and plenty of sunscreen. There are kiosks along the way for filling up and resting your feet and you’ll pass the large Club Med establishment about halfway down. You can catch a bus or taxi back from Trancoso.

NOTE: If you like the idea of walking along the beach at night, be sure to bring a flashlight, as there are no lights to guide you (but for the beckoning moon), as the beach bars are all shut down for the evening. It’s perfectly safe to walk along these beaches at night, although you should be aware the some stretches will have plenty of water splashing in at high tide. At night, the walk along the northern coast is probably a bit more straightforward than on the south coast.