Rio, blog
Many travelers come to Rio de Janeiro and never once set foot in the historical district. The beaches and attractions in the Zona Sul are so compelling that they overwhelm other agendas. That’s a shame, because the historical architecture, museums, churches, age-old bars, and coffee shops in the downtown area make up the city’s rich and fascinating history. Most of the main attractions are within a few city blocks of each other and you can easily create a nice walking tour of the area. I suggest starting at the pier with a trip out to the Palace on Fiscal Island. From there, you can make a J-shaped loop around the Centro Histórico. That puts you in a great area for sitting with a cup of coffee or cold drink at one of the city’s legendary coffee shops or bars at the end of your tour. The downtown area is safe during the day and full of historical architecture, colorful people, and interesting activities. That being said, a simple reminder can never hurt: don’t bring a lot of money, credit cards or valuables with you on your walking journey downtown (or anywhere in Rio for that matter)…just enough for the day’s activities.
Here are some of the sites in the downtown historical district. I’ll update this article with more sites, so come back to see the rest.
Historic Sites:
Sao Bento Monastery
Palace on Ilha Fiscal
Rio, Rio-todo
On Sunday at 10am you can hear the Gregorian Chants at the Monastery of São Bento, one of the most impressive Baroque churches in the country. Built in 1663, the monastery contains detailing and sculptures with a mixture of dark Jacarandá wood and gold leaf. Most impressive is the front altar and large paintings along the side altars. The pipe organ is a mixture the original from 1773 and a new organ from 1945. It’s located on Rua D. Gerardo 40 and is open from 7–11am and 2–6pm Monday–Saturday and from 8:15am on Sundays.
Rio, Rio-todo
The marina area in Rio de Janeiro is on the coast of the downtown area. It has a few different attractions to check out. First, inside the Espaço Cultural da Marinha (Av. Pres. Vargas, 9am–5pm daily) is a small Maritime Museum with a few artifacts showing the history of Brazilian sea navigation. Outside at the pier are two ships that are open for viewing: a battle ship and submarine. The main excursion here is the the boat across to the Fiscal Island, which you can take from the pier. On the island, you’ll see the Palácio da Ilha Fiscal, one of the highlights in historic Rio de Janeiro. The palace was built by Emperor Dom Pedro II in 1889 and was used for about a week bedore Brazil was proclaimed a Republic. After that, it was part of the marine base and later fell into disrepair. Restored in 200, the palace is a beautiful gothic structure with many interesting stained glass windows that show the life of Dom Pedro II and his family. Also restored were the ceiling panels, and paintings on the walls and floors. The outer on the outer walls sine with their original light green color. The architecture in general is fabulous. Inside the various rooms and hallways are permanent exhibitions related to the royal family, the palace itself, and the island. Visitation is guided and you should arrive early to ge a seat on the boat, as it can get crowded (Sundays are less crowded). Boats leave at 1pm Thursday and Friday, 1pm, 2:30pm, and 4pm on weekends. Cost is R$8 for adults.
Rio, Rio-todo, blog
Tirelessly watching over the craziness of Rio de Janeiro, the Cristo has stood since 1931 redeeming the city and its inhabitants from the top of Corcovado Mountain. The famous monument, called Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) was designed to celbrate the 100 years of Brazil’s independence from Portugal from 1822–1922. Better late than never; the 1145 ton monument was lifted into place nine years later and has since become the very symbol of city. Today the Cristo Redentor is one of the world’s most recognized monuments. It stand 38 meters tall on the top of the Morro de Corcovado, which is on the edge of the Tijuca National Park–the large mountainous area sitting right in the middle of the city. Many of the foothills of Tijuca are loaded with favelas, poor and lawless neighborhoods of Rio, practically at the very feet of the Cristo.
From the principal viewing deck at the feet of the Cristo, you get a magnificent view of the city, from the Zona Norte (at the left hand of Christ) to the Zona Sul (at the right hand of Christ). He stands, more or less, looking out in the direction of Copacabana (justifiably where most of his attention is required). The monument was given some new features in 2000, including new lighting and new means of access to the top. You can now take one of the panoramic elevators up from the lower station, or take the high-tech escalator. If you prefer the original method, you can still climb the 222 steps, passing numerous souvenir shops and snack stands along the way. But first, you have to get up Corcovado Mountain to the lower platform and reception area. Access to the top of Corcovado Mountain is from the Flamengo neighborhood, where the streets begin their windy way up the hill. Many visitors take taxis up to the top (they are waiting at the bottom of the hill) or take one of the many vans that haul passengers in groups. The best way, however, is via the train that chugs up the hill from Rua Cosme Velho. The station at the bottom was also recently revitalized and contains shops, relaxation areas, and a photographic exhibition of the history of the monument. It costs R$20 and operates from 9am–7pm daily, the same hours of operation as the monument itself.
The official address of the train up Corcovado is Rua Cosme Velho 513 (21/2558-1329, www.corcovado.com.br).
Rio
Great Lodging Between Downtown and Copacabana
Hotel Florida is one of Rio de Janeiro’s best mid-range hotels. Located in the Flamengo neighborhood, it’s close to the city’s metro line (for getting to Copacabana and Ipanema) and Flamengo Beach (for the best view of the bay). The place is traditional, but not stuffy…elegant, but not extravagant. The service is top notch and if you’re not set on being right in the action, this is a good choice for couples or families.
Accommodations
Like most city hotels in Brazil, Hotel Florida is a high-rise building surrounded by other high-rise buildings. It’s not a slick, modern building, but one of the city’s older options. That makes it a bit more quaint, if a tad dusty and worn. Also, the rooms tend to be small in the older hotels (although all too often in the newer ones too), but you can count on good showers (with gas-heated water) and clean, comfortable bedding. Florida excels at service and location.
The Area
You can walk around near the hotel at night and check out the goings-on in the area. There are casual places to eat and drink within walking or you can catch a cab or metro to a more distant outpost. The hotel is wonderfully located in Flamengo, once the home of Brazil’s government and strategically located between downtown Rio de Janeiro and Copacabana.
My Impressions
I stayed at the Florida Hotel with my wife and we enjoyed being away from the Copacabana and Ipanema scene when we wanted to be. It’s not exactly out in the boonies (in fact, my wife saw some famous Brazilian musicians there). There is plenty of local nightlife nearby and you can catch the metro during the day to the downtown area or the beaches. A short taxi ride gets you to the Cristo monument. The service was excellent and the rooms were small, but well kept. This is an excellent option for families or couples.
Details
Aminities: Gym, pool, sauna, bar and restaurant. In room: TV, air conditioning, phone.
Prices: From $120 to $200 per night with breakfast included.
Location: Rua Ferreira Viana 81, in Flamengo
Phone: 21-2556-5242
site:windsorhoteis.com.br
Rio, Sao Paulo, beaches, excursions
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The Road from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro
The road between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo is one of Brazil’s most traveled tourist destinations. Called the Rio-Santos road, the trip is perfect for many visitors who want to see the big cities of Brazil, some excellent beaches and tropical islands (including some that are touristy and full of beautiful people and others that are remote and deserted), and also a touch of the interior. You can rent a car and take the trip at your own pace, visiting the highlights that you set for yourself. In this article, I’ll try to answer some of the most common questions about this trip. I’ll add more as they come in, so this will be a work-in-progress.
The road between São Paulo and Rio is a popular road trip for tourists and Brazilians alike. It’s about 450 kilometers of coastline and takes you past some of the most beautiful beaches and beach towns in the country. The water gets greener and warmer the closer you get to Rio, but the beaches near São Paulo are not to be missed either — for their water sports, beautiful people and great boardwalks.
The road itself is in good shape, but it can get a bit windy along the mountain passes around the São Sebastião area, so take it slowly and carefully and enjoy the time.
While you’re in Sao Paulo, you can take the Walking Tour of Downtown Sao Paulo. Also, I’ve listed some good hotels in the Sao Paulo area in my article on The Accor Hotels. I always suggest starting in São Paulo and driving to Rio. This way, your trip will keep building and building to the end, saving the most spectacular for last. There are so many things to see and do between these great cities, that you may want to make the trip twice to get it all in. You wouldn’t be the first.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a lot of violence in this region?
Outside of Rio, there is nothing excessive and even inside Rio, the problems are mostly located in the Copacabana Beach area. Of course, you should always be aware and careful. Keep a minimum amount of cash on you and no significant valuables. Split up your cash and when you drive, leave as much in the trunk as possible (your bags, valuables, and credit cards).
What are THE best places for snorkeling?
I’d say that the top snorkeling on this trip would be around Ilha Grande and Angra dos Reis. It’s hard to say which of these is best, but I can say that Ilha Grande requires a bit more time and commitment. If you have the time, it’s totally worth it. If you choose Angra, then be sure to take a boat out to the islands AWAY from the mainland — so you get away from the Angra pollution. That said, there are some wonderful dives there.
The next best place would be the north coast around Ubatuba. There are some wonderful waters there and you can charter boats out for great snorkeling.
How are the roads in this area?
The BR freeways (called rodovias) are much faster and in better condition than the small roads. Also, this is a mountainous region and the roads can be difficult at times. I suggest sticking to the main estradas that will offer the smoothest ride. However, the roads in general in this area are well maintained and generally problem free. You have to get used to maneuvering in two-lanes of traffic is all.
How do Ilha Grande, Paraty, and Buzios compare?
These are all different from one another and Buzios is completely different than just about any other place on the coast. It’s a great place for adults and offers a lot of shopping, modern facilities, great hotels and lots of beaches — both crowded and secluded. You also have some economical options for hotels, so it’s not only for the spenders. A lot of Brazil’s TV stars can be seen at Buzios.
Paraty is an excellent place for tourists and provides a bit of the historical side of Brazil along with beaches and great restaurants. It’s a small town, but the best beaches are outside of town to the north or south. Don’t miss the waterfalls in Paraty, as well as the boat trips.
Ilha Grande is the most remote of the three. There are very few cars on this huge island and only one major town — called Abraao (Abraham). The town, hotels, and eating establishments are all very quaint and you can walk around town with no problem to take it all in. There are beaches all around the island and you can hike or take boats out to them. Some of these are among the prettiest in Brazil and offer great snorkeling, diving, and other fun activities. You really feel the island experience at Ilha Grande because of the lack of cars.
What is the best rental car service to use there?
Here’s a comment from one of my readers about that…”We used Unidas rent-a-car and they were great and about 50% cheaper than Hertz or Avis (12 day rental of a Chevy Meriva was $500, including insurance). It was practically new and they gave us an 800 number to call in case of problems. We booked them through Autoeurope.com.”
Is it worth going inland to Teresopolis?
Absolutely! Teresopolis has a lot to offer and is completely different than the coastal sights. The feature there is hiking and rafting and you should probably set this up ahead of time — like while you’re in Buzios or Rio — with one of the agencies that offer packages or trip planning. For most people 48 hours is enough, but if you’re really into hiking and rock climbing, you might want more.
Rio, blog
The best views of Rio de Janeiro and the entire coastline around it, are from the two view platforms of Urca and Pão de Açúcar, both part of the famous gondola ride. It’s worth going up once during the day and again after dark to see both aspects of the city.
Rio, excursions
RIO DE JANEIRO–Over 4,000 European travelers were taken into “Rocinha,” Rio de Janeiro’s oldest slum, so far this year. And that’s just by one of several agencies specializing in the favela tour. Now, it seems, the city’s official tourism office, Riotur, is including the favela in their list of approved tours for international travelers. It seems visitors want to see “all” of Rio de Janeiro.
And see they will. The favelas in Rio de Janeiro are famous for their incredible views. They are located on the choicest highlands overlooking the coastline. Dangerous as they may be for the uninvited, the official favela guides have been operating these chaperoned visits for over a dozen years without a hitch. Tourism, in fact, is a legitimate and promising source of income for the favelas and it doesn’t hurt to have international visitors see, first hand, the conditions of the big city slums.
Marcelo Armstrong of Favela Tour is one such “official” guide and leads people into and around the Rocinha favela by van and on foot…through the street markets and all the way up to the highest viewpoint. It’s more than worth half a day while you’re in the marvelous city–if not for the eye-opening educational content, then for the panoramic ocean views.
Bikini, Rio, beaches
Rio de Janeiro no longer a haven for bunda
In an absurd, but valiant attempt to disassociate the Brazilian backside from Rio de Janeiro (specifically the near-naked female derriere so ubiquitous along Brazil’s coastline), city authorities voted to prohibit the sale of postcards that are endowed with portraits of this particular Brazilian national treasure. Yes, postcards have been identified as the culprits. Authorities feel that postcards featuring sexy, scantily-clad Brazilians only encourage the association of sexual tourism with Rio “…which stigmatizes us with undignified labels,” suggests state secretary Sergio Ricardo. Of course, one need only cast one’s eyes to the sandy beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema to find an endless variety of sand-sprinkled lower halves, fanning across the sand like dunes along the waterfront. Reality is so much more interesting than postcards, anyway. But could bikinis themselves be the next target of censorship for Rio de Janeiro?
Without a doubt, sexual tourism is a problem in Rio, as it is in many of Brazil’s coastal cities. It contributes to the country’s astronomical HIV/AIDS statistics and adds a number of other problems to boot–problems that need to be addressed. But it’s probably not the public relations effort from the postcard-buying public that is to blame–or the fact that so much moon shines along with the sun at Copacabana. No, sexual tourism is the result of neither promiscuity nor exhibitionism. Rather, it comes from that special mixture of poverty, democracy, and international tourism. Remove any one of these three ingredients and sexual tourism falters. Now that’s something to write home about.
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