The Brazil Travel Site

Review of Vecchio Sogno Restaurant in Belo Horizonte, Brazil

minas-food (February 13, 2008)

Fine Dining at the Foot of City Hall

When in Belo Horizonte, most people end up spending much of their time in the Savassi and Lourdes areas, two of the more “noble” neighborhoods of the city, where plenty of food and shopping options are available for the choosing. Not far from these culinary centers is the reputed Vecchio Sogno. When you’re ready for something unique and elegant in the gastronomical arts, make a reservation at Vecchio Sogno in the Praça da Assembleia, the City Hall of Belo Horizonte.

About Vecchio Sogno

The restaurant is the passion of chef-owner Ivo Faria, award winning chef of national repute, having studied under Lucien Iltis, chef to Brazilian president Juscalino Kubitschek of the 1960s “bossa nova” era, and head chef at the Copacabana Palace. After further studies in Switzerland, Ivo returned to Brazil and eventually opened his dream restaurant, Vecchio Sogno (meaning old dream). The signature of its creator comes through in its atmosphere and its dishes, both demonstrating the artist’s touch.

The Food

Basing his menu on Italian cuisine, Chef Ivo is wonderfully inventive. He works with both imported and local ingredients to make such creations as:

• salmon spinach cakes.
• ricotta tortelli with lamb leek sauce.
• shrimp in mushroom mango sauce with potatoes and spinach.

Naturally, the pastas are all made fresh and the meats and poultry are Brazil’s premium quality. Speaking of premium quality, Vecchio Sogno keeps a temperature-controlled wine cellar with domestic and international wines, a full bar, and a dessert menu featuring mousse and Crème Brulée, among other morsels. The integrity of the place is demonstrated everywhere, but especially in its semi-open kitchen, where a dozen culinary technicians work in unison as they have done since the restaurant’s opening in 1995.

Comments

I visited chef Ivo Faria one afternoon, toured the facilities, peeked into the wine cellar and photographed the cooks working their magic. Afternoons, are relaxed and quiet, but the place really begins to cook at happy hour and beyond. I was able to sample my early dinner of ricotta tortelli in lamb leek sauce. The food was artistically cooked and presented and the service was first-rate. This is an excellent place for a business dinner or elegant social dining experience — not necessarily for those interested in a wild night out.

Details

• Hours: Vecchio Sogno opens for lunch at 10am and continues until the last customer leaves. The Dinner menu begins around 6pm.
• Prices: Plates range from $20 to $50 per person.
• Getting There: Rua Martim de Carvalho 75, Praça da Assembleia in Santa Agostinho neighborhood. Take a taxi to the Praça da Assembleia, about 10 minutes from downtown.
• Contact: 31-3292-5251 or www.vecchiosogno.com.br or email: vecchio@vecchiosogno.com.br
• Special Notes: There is a salon for non-smokers and spaces for large groups.

Shopping Highlights in Minas Gerais

minas gerais (February 13, 2008)

What to Buy and Where to Buy It

Minas is a great place for shopping and if you know what to look for and where to look for it, you can find some of Brazil’s best prices. Specialties in the area are, of course, the items that are made or found there – most of which have been part of the regional culture for hundreds of years. Here’s a summary to get you started.

Jewels that Shine Like the Sun

Minas Gerais got its name because of the gold and stone mines that abound in the area. It’s what made the place what it is today and many of those mines are still in operation and pounding out plenty of precious product. The best place in the entire region is the city called Valadares, in the north of Minas Gerais. This city is closest to some of the major stone trading centers in the country. If you’re serious about stones, then Valadares is the place for you. But don’t expect a lot of tourist activities there. For a better blend of shopping and sight seeing, the next choice is certainly Ouro Preto, once the gold and jewel capital of Brazil (and probably the world at the time). A close third place goes to the town of Diamantina, a wonderful historical village and home to many diamonds and emeralds. Diamantina is about four hours north of Belo Horizonte.

Cachaça, Brazil’s Fire Water

The Central Minas Region is famous all over Brazil for producing some of the country’s best cachaça – the clear or yellow sugarcane alcohol that is Brazil’s distinct contribution to the world of drunkenness and debauchery. Actually, cachaça is to Brazil what vodka is to Russia or whiskey is to Scotland. There are good bottles and bad ones. Some of the best places to search include the bars and cachaça distilleries in Ouro Preto and Mariana, where you’ll find the Gota de Minas brand, among many others. You can also find many brands in the Mercado Central of Belo Horizonte.

Clothes and More Clothes

You’ll find great clothing all over Minas Gerais, but the best place, by far, is the garment district in the city of Belo Horizonte. Known as the neighborhood of Barro Preto (Black Bar), this district specializes in factory outlets and direct-to-consumer shopping parks. You’ll find all sort of jeans, elegant clothing, shorts, shirts, and dresses. You can also find all sorts of sewing supplies and yardage shops, in case you’re into making your own. Just take a cab to the Barro Preto district, about five minutes from the main bus station in downtown Belo Horizonte. Be sure to get some cash from the bank before you go, as there are very few banks there and many shops don’t take plastic.

Bikinis and Lingerie, the Intimate Clothing of Brazil

I know, bikinis and lingerie are clothing, but I thought they should have their own, special heading in this article. Besides, Brazil is famous for these items and Minas Gerais is one of the best places to find them. You’ll find great lingerie in the many shops lining the streets near Shopping Cidade shopping mall in Belo Horizonte. You can also find great deals on comfortable under clothing in the discount outlets along Rua Paraná, from the central bus station all the way to the Mercado Central (if you make it that far). This is a crowded, chaotic shopping scene in the middle of bustling downtown B.H., but if you’re up for the challenge, it’s worth the trip.

Outdoor Markets

The biggest outdoor market in the region and one of the biggest in South America is the street fair known locally as the hippie fair or feira hippie. It occurs every Sunday on Rua Afonso Pena, the main street of town about a half mile from the downtown bus station in Belo Horizonte. It starts early (around 8am) and ends early (around 1pm) and its c-c-crowded like you’ve never imagined! Be sure to hold onto your valuables as you wedge your way through the crowds and don’t hesitate to step to the side for a breather. It’s a wonderful slice of Minas culture and a good place to find deals on handicrafts and clothing.

Country Cooking Kitchen

They don’t make pots and pans like this any more. You can find clay and ceramic pots for oven cooking, plus stone wear, copper pans and iron skillets. There are aluminum pots and pans of every shape and size. The best place for these cooking contraptions is in the town of Cachoeira do Campo, just 20-minutes outside of Ouro Preto (heading toward Belo Horizonte). This is where many of the stone and copper pots are made and where you’ll find the best prices. You can also find these items in the markets of Ouro Preto, including the Stone Market or feira de pedras in front of the San Francisco Church, or igreja São Francisco. If all else fails, you can find most of these items in the Mercado Central in Belo Horizonte, but the prices there are a bit higher.

Family Focusing on Food

minas-food (February 13, 2008)

Originality and diversity are the notable themes at Aromi, one of Belo Horizonte’s most diverse lunch spots. Using the traditional “a-quilo” buffet, Aromi is anything but typical with its recipes. Here you’ll find dishes from all culinary traditions, such as chicken and cheese crepes, pasta putanesca, or Mexican tortillas. You always get a choice of meats, plus specialty items like chicken pot pie or lasagna. There are always plenty of salad options and many special veggie dishes, like deviled eggs or salad with raisins and apples. Even the traditional Brazilian rice and beans are more spicy and savory than usual.

Lunch is reasonable at under R$15 per kilo (with some specialty items priced separately). You’ll probably get out of there for under R$15 per person and have a lunch you’ll remember for a long time. Located in one of the city´s older buildings (a colonial-style, three-story home) and easily accessible on Avenida Afonso Pena near Avenida do Cortorno, it has three floors of seating with plenty of space. However, some days it can get rather crowded and you’d do well to arrive a bit early. They offer a
discount for customers arriving before 11:30 a.m. The old building is quaint, but it lacks a bit of interior design. That’s probably because they’ve been focusing on the food. It’s a family owned and operated place and what they may lack in slick decorations, they make up for in sincerity and simplicity.

Compared to other lunch offerings around town at about the same price, Aromi is a clear winner.

Aromi
Avenida Alfonso Pena 3112
Open 11-4 weekdays and 12-4 on Sunday
Closed Saturday
Food Price Friendly Staff

Catching a Train From Ouro Preto to Mariana

excursions, minas gerais (March 31, 2007)

The cities of Ouro Preto and Mariana have recently inaugurated their very own Maria Fumaça train ride between the two towns. The train, which is a replica of a 19th century locomotive, takes about 20 minutes to make the trip and leaves from the Ouro Preto Estação do Trem in the lower part of town. It passes through the mountainous region between the towns and provides some spectacular views of the hills and small towns of Central Minas. The cost, for now, is a bit high at R$30 per person, but it opens up Mariana as a real option for an excursion while you are staying in Ouro Preto. Previously, one had to take a bus between the two (an increasingly dangerous proposition), pay for a taxi (about R$40 round trip), or get a ride with a packaged tour.