The Brazil Travel Site

Intimately Bound Up with Brazil, a Memoir

by Bernard James
“We were somewhere in that crowd. Marta Rocha was Miss Brazil. The Carnaval was not as fully organized as it is today.”
 
 
I was born in St.Louis in the Creole enclave called the Ville. My grandfather had been the honorary mayor of the Ville. My grandfather died before I was born. There were many people that called my grandfather “Uncle John” who were not related to us by blood. I was raised in Chicago and went to school there. We left the Ville when I was eight years old and never looked back. While in the Ville I spoke French and Spanish freely and was discouraged from speaking Creole. That is why today I am slow in Creole; although in New Orleans and vicinity (Houma) many people open up conversations with me in Creole, I switch as fast as I can to French.

When I went back to Harvard last April I did the same thing. The cab drivers in Cambridge are mostly Haitian: I can understand their Creole but I respond in French. Downtown on Market Street In San Francisco, people who I have never seen me before open up a conversation with me in French. It happens almost every time and has been some what of a joke. I lost my wallet one time with five hundred dollars in it. It was returned to me by a French speaking Swiss University girl. When she returned to Geneva I sent her a purse in gratitude. None of our conversation was in English. I don’t know why this happens, since I do not wear the French flag on my sleeve.

One of the reasons that my father left the Ville, I later learned, was because the Ku Klux Klan imposed a secondary boycott and he could not get food or supplies for his restaurants. We landed within walking distance of the University of Chicago, which had a tremendous influence on all our lives. My oldest sister graduated from there in 1942 or earlier. Woodlawn is next to Hyde Park; my brother Andrew is now a neighbor of Obama and Rahm Emmauel.

In Chicago we were visited by many foreign students, among them, Mario Wagner Cunha from an elite Brazilian family. Papa Doc got his medical degree there. We had many Haitian visitors and kept open house of sorts. Cooking is one of my hobbies. My father had ten children; how he managed to maintain a haute cuisine in St. Louis and Chicago is a still a mystery to me. It takes twelve hours to make French pastry the way we made it. I do not make crepes with Grand Marnier every day. We traveled; we must have been fairly comfortable. At least up to the Depression.

I went to school with Luis Labouriaux, a Carioca of Creole-French descent. Later on we were in the graduate school at Michigan together. We became as close as brothers. When I went to Rio, Dona Judith formalized what was already extant. Luis knew her before she knew herself. Luis would have been her godfather except that he did not take Catholicism seriously. Their custom is transitive. Whenever my brother Andrew came to Rio with me, he was treated the same way. Dona Judith tried to marry him off too. She regarded my children as her grandchildren.

Some things sink in on me perhaps later than they should. Those students at the University of Chicago at that time came through what I now call an elite filter. To put it another way, there were no poverty stricken peasants running up and down the Midway. When Dona Judith introduced me into her circle, I did not realize that it was “the circle!” At her coming out party (quinceanera) she and her sister were introduced to the emperor. Joe Sixpack does not usually find himself in the presence of an emperor. (I knew that Diva was a Brandao; I did not realize it was the Brandao.) One does not casually call on an Archbishop (her uncle) as I did. She named her second son Giordano Bruno in defiance of the Church. Giordano did not fare as well as Galileo; he was burned at the stake for his beliefs.

For a long time after the war I struggled with raising my family either here or in Brazil. I wanted to spare them American racial prejudice. I have a passport with all my children on it. That decision was made for me when the military took over in Brazil. I stayed here and sent them through the American school system. You can blame me for the results. I was overjoyed when Brazil returned to democracy. I was in Sao Paulo in the crowd on that very day! I did not overtly become a Lusophile; I was dragged into it by events. I was prepared to send my sons to Rio rather than put up with the Vietnam War draft.

We are now more than ever intimately bound up with Brazil; it is in the warp and woof of our existence.

AXE
Bernard

Unfriendliest Cities for Foreigners

Neither Rio de Janeiro nor Sao Paulo made the list of unfriendliest cities for foreigners, according to LowFares.com’s Caution While Traveling column. Amazing at is seems, these well-known Brazilian danger zones do not compare to Los Angeles, New York, London, Moscow, or a number of other unfriendly cities around the world.

Of course, unfriendly could mean everything from bad manners to all-out danger. Paris, while known for being unfriendly (especially to Americans), is a fairly safe city, while Mexico City is among the more dangerous cities around, even though the service is excellent there.

Either way you look at it, the LowFares.com list is interesting and insightful. Check out their low travel fares while you’re there. And for an up-to-date report on safety in Sao Paulo, Brazil, check out the Overseas Security Advisory Council’s Report on the matter.

Brazil Under Water, Diving & Snorkeling Adventures

One of Brazil’s most exciting offerings is under the water. Diving and snorkeling in Brazil is among the most treasured activities for Brazilians and visitors alike and you’ll find opportunities to visit Brazil’s underwater world all over the coastline. Brazil’s diving locations are many and quite varied, from offshore islands featuring sea turtles and dolphins to beach reefs with colorful tropical fish. You’ll find shipwrecks and even helicopter crashes under water. There’s something for beginners and advanced divers alike (advanced divers will find some of the fresh water diving in the Pantanal region unique and interesting).

I’ve added a complete guide to Brazil’s best diving locations in the post: Snorkeling & Scuba Diving in Brazil. this will help you choose your favorite diving locations. Don’t forget, if you’re not a diver, taking a diving course in Brazil is an excellent way to spend your vacation, get your diving certificate and save some money at the same time (diving courses in Brazil are generally cheaper than at home).

How to Shop for Luggage

Planning a trip for real? Heading to South America? You’ll need some luggage that is strong and flexible, able to take beating but not look like a strongbox. You don’t, after all, want to call attention to yourself. You could buy luggage in Brazil, but I gotta warn you…there’s a lot of really crappy stuff there.

Actually, you’re probably better off shopping online from home. I suggest taking a look at the luggage guide at ShopWiki.com for starters. You’ll get a good idea of what’s available at what price. If you’re traveling for awhile, I suggest taking a large “trunk-style” bag. My favorite is this one: Eagle Creek Trunk.

You should have a day pack also–for taking with you on those beach and jungle outings. ShopWiki has a good section on buying backpacks. You should get something very strong and easy to wear. Nothing too big unless you’re planning to backpack for your entire trip. A quality day pack is probably enough.

Finally, you might consider getting some Brazil flag stickers to adorn your luggage. It’s a great way to communicate your support for your host country. Check out Flag Sticker Shop for some options. Of course, you can always find these in Brazil, but it’s great to go prepared.

Rio de Janeiro: Downtown Historical District

Many travelers come to Rio de Janeiro and never once set foot in the historical district. The beaches and attractions in the Zona Sul are so compelling that they overwhelm other agendas. That’s a shame, because the historical architecture, museums, churches, age-old bars, and coffee shops in the downtown area make up the city’s rich and fascinating history. Most of the main attractions are within a few city blocks of each other and you can easily create a nice walking tour of the area. I suggest starting at the pier with a trip out to the Palace on Fiscal Island. From there, you can make a J-shaped loop around the Centro Histórico. That puts you in a great area for sitting with a cup of coffee or cold drink at one of the city’s legendary coffee shops or bars at the end of your tour. The downtown area is safe during the day and full of historical architecture, colorful people, and interesting activities. That being said, a simple reminder can never hurt: don’t bring a lot of money, credit cards or valuables with you on your walking journey downtown (or anywhere in Rio for that matter)…just enough for the day’s activities.

Here are some of the sites in the downtown historical district. I’ll update this article with more sites, so come back to see the rest.

Historic Sites:

Sao Bento Monastery
Palace on Ilha Fiscal

Morro de Corcovado and the Cristo Monument

Tirelessly watching over the craziness of Rio de Janeiro, the Cristo has stood since 1931 redeeming the city and its inhabitants from the top of Corcovado Mountain. The famous monument, called Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) was designed to celbrate the 100 years of Brazil’s independence from Portugal from 1822–1922. Better late than never; the 1145 ton monument was lifted into place nine years later and has since become the very symbol of city. Today the Cristo Redentor is one of the world’s most recognized monuments. It stand 38 meters tall on the top of the Morro de Corcovado, which is on the edge of the Tijuca National Park–the large mountainous area sitting right in the middle of the city. Many of the foothills of Tijuca are loaded with favelas, poor and lawless neighborhoods of Rio, practically at the very feet of the Cristo.

From the principal viewing deck at the feet of the Cristo, you get a magnificent view of the city, from the Zona Norte (at the left hand of Christ) to the Zona Sul (at the right hand of Christ). He stands, more or less, looking out in the direction of Copacabana (justifiably where most of his attention is required). The monument was given some new features in 2000, including new lighting and new means of access to the top. You can now take one of the panoramic elevators up from the lower station, or take the high-tech escalator. If you prefer the original method, you can still climb the 222 steps, passing numerous souvenir shops and snack stands along the way. But first, you have to get up Corcovado Mountain to the lower platform and reception area. Access to the top of Corcovado Mountain is from the Flamengo neighborhood, where the streets begin their windy way up the hill. Many visitors take taxis up to the top (they are waiting at the bottom of the hill) or take one of the many vans that haul passengers in groups. The best way, however, is via the train that chugs up the hill from Rua Cosme Velho. The station at the bottom was also recently revitalized and contains shops, relaxation areas, and a photographic exhibition of the history of the monument. It costs R$20 and operates from 9am–7pm daily, the same hours of operation as the monument itself.

The official address of the train up Corcovado is Rua Cosme Velho 513 (21/2558-1329, www.corcovado.com.br).

Brazil’s Self Service Lunch, Weigh-In with Comida A-Quilo

Wherever you go in Brazil, you’ll almost certainly run into the popular self-service style lunch experience, called comida a-quilo or food by the kilo. This is a cafeteria-style experience, but with a distinctly Brazilian accent. You start with a tray and a plate and load up as you pass along the many different meat, veggie and dessert dishes. You choose whatever you like and pay for only what you take…by weight.

Many of the more economical a-quilo eateries offer something special for the locals, known as a prato feito or ready-made plate, also known as the PF. This economical dish is generally not weighed like the a-quilo option, but has a fixed price and fixed menu. Sometimes, the restaurant staff makes it for you and sometimes you can make it yourself–generally limited to one piece of meat and as much salad and carbs as you can eat. Typical Brazilian salad items include lettuce, tomato, shredded carrots and cooked beets. You’ll also find the famous Brazilian farofa, which is a course manioc flower fried with spices and herbs. Rice and Brazilian-style beans are a given.

In most cities throughout Brazil, the restaurants that offer a-quilo and PF meals also offer delivery to your door or workplace. In fact, it was for Brazil’s working class that this tradition became so popular in Brazil. Today, you can hardly find a restaurant that does not offer some type of a-quilo option for lunch.

The Famous Brazilian Cheese Bread: Pão de queijo

Brazil is hungry for the ball! But I’m not talking about Brazilian football (soccer). I’m talking about another national passion, known as pão de queijo, or the cheese ball. This tasty morsel is a cheesy bread ball made with cheese, eggs, oil, salt, and manioc flour. The best are said to come from the Minas Gerais Region, where the fabulous finger food originated from a happy accident. In the 18th century, the wheat flour from Portugal was so bad that the people of the area substituted manioc flour and Brazilian food was born.

You can find pão de queijo in the simplest of snack stands as well as the fanciest cafes throughout Brazil…from the interior states to the coastal cities of São Paulo and Rio, not to mention the beaches of the Northeast Region. If you find yourself in the state of Minas Gerais, you’ll have the opportunity to taste the original, authentic pão de queijo in various sizes and styles.

The little cheese morsel is often served for breakfast in the cafes and bakeries of Brazil, but is also found on dinner menus, in bars. in nightclubs and in festival booths year ‘round. They are excellent with coffee in the morning or a cold beer in the evening.

Walking Tour of Downtown Sao Paulo

São Paulo is so big and spread out that it intimidates a lot of travelers, but two days are really about all you need to take in all the main points. You’ll be taking the metro a bit, but that’s pretty much what everybody does in Sampa (as the locals call it). In this quick walking tour, you’ll see the historical center and many of the fabulous monuments and buildings from the coffee boom days of the late 1800s. Of course, there’s a lot more to the world’s third largest city, including your nights out and shopping in the Bras and Jardins areas. You can take in many of the city’s architectural and cultural sites by walking around the old downtown area. This walking tour takes you to the Theatro Municipal, the Catedral da Sé, the Banespa building and the Mercado Municipal.

Click here to take the walking tour of Sao Paulo

Brazil’s Best Beaches, An Armchair Journey

Are you ready to check out Brazil’s amazing coastline? I’ve uploaded a series of photos from some of my travels up and down the long coastline of Brazil…from the Northeast Region to the Southern Region and everything in between. Well, not exactly everything, but I’m working on it.

Check out the photo journey at Brazil’s Beaches (A Photo Journey) and see if you don’t think the water is as blue as the sky and the sand as soft as a bed sheet. I recommend a cool coconut water and a stroll along the boardwalk!