The above activities notwithstanding, by far the most popular activity at Copacabana is people watching and there are beach kiosks with tables and chairs overlooking the sand for just that purpose. It’s common to see Brazilian celebrities and professional athletes walking here or playing foot-volley on the beach; many of them live right here in Copacabana. On the far side of the coast highway are numerous condominium buildings (Paulo Cuelho and Caetano Veloso are just two famed Brazilians with apartments overlooking the beach), top-end hotels, restaurants, bars and stores.

At night, Copacabana becomes a cauldron of activities, most involving the tourist trade. If visitors are not being assaulted on one end of Copacabana (the north end), they are being hustled by prostitutes on the other (the middle and south end mostly). There are some popular dance clubs here, but most of them are packed with prostitutes and foreigners. The color of the night in Copacabana is definitely red and almost everybody on the street is looking to buy, sell, or steal something. The inland roads that parallel Copacabana (of which there are two main ones besides Av. Atlântica on the coast) are generally less and less radical the more inland you go. The first street, Av. Nossa Sra. de Copacabana is the most active. You’ll find restaurants, lunch buffets, markets, boutique shops, shopping malls, movie theaters, cheap hotels, expensive hotels…just about anything and everything is there. You can take this street all the way to the Praia do Diabo, where you can cross over into Ipanema. The next street is Rua Barata Ribeiro, which is a milder version of the other. The south end of Ribeiro goes into the tunnel that leads to Ipanema and you can pick up a bus going out that way (better to go under than over, since the hill is home to two of Rio’s grand favelas).

NOTE: The south end of Copacabana and the inland streets is relatively safe to walk around. The northern end is not. If you are staying in the northern end of Copacabana, be sure to take taxis to other parts of the city. Also, the ocean at Copacabana is generally considered to be polluted and not suitable for swimming, although sources differ on this point.

Walking Tour of Copacabana

If you walk down the boardwalk in Copacabana, there are a few things you should be sure to include in your journey, occasionally coming in off the beach for a block or two to catch an interesting attraction on the inland streets. Before starting out, remember that this journey is farther than it appears on the maps and will take a few hours to complete. The same is true for a walking tour of Ipanema and Leblon afterward. If you’re not up for a day on foot, look into renting a bicycle to make this journey.

At the very top of Copacabana sits the Morro de Leme and there’s a trail that you can take out across the base of the mount to get a fabulous view of the beach. The trail is called the Caminho dos Pescadores (Fisherman’s Way). Coming down toward the middle of the beach (between station 3 and station 2) is the famous Copacabana Palace Hotel, the first hotel built in Copacabana, in 1923. It was frequented by the likes of Marlene Dietrich, Clark Gable, Walt Disney, and Queen Elizabeth II. Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers danced and filmed together inside. Today it remains one of the city’s most luxurious hotels, although the casino shut down in 1946. You can stop for an afternoon tea in their tearoom for only R$40. Reservations recommended.

Walk into town along Rua Paula Freitas up to Rua Barata Ribeiro, then turn left until you see the Baratos da Ribeiro Bookstore (Rua Barata Ribeiro 354), where you’ll find all kinds of treasures. Back toward the beach down at station 5, you’ll find the Roxy Theater (Av. Nossa Sra. da Copacabana at Rua Bolivar), which was built in the 1930s and still shows art and feature films, including a 3pm matinee. On the boardwalk, just south of the Othon Palace Hotel is the famous nightclub Help, which gets going every night around midnight with driving music and plenty of drinking and dancing. It is located in an old movie house. At the far end of the beach at station 6 (posto 6) is the Fisherman’s Colony, where you can find the fresh catch of the day to take home with you.

Crossing from Copacabana to Ipanema on foot, you will walk past the southern end of Copacabana, where you’ll see fishing boats and fisherman working their trade, as if from the first half of the 1900s. You ‘ll see trees lining the point called Arpoador, where the Copacabana Fort (10am–6pm Tuesday–Sunday) is located. Built in 1914, the fort contains the Museu Histórico do Exército and some interesting German Krupp canons, along with maps and documents from Brazilian naval history. The fort offers an excellent view of Copacabana, which you can see from the patio of the Confeitaria Colombo coffee shop inside–an excellent place to sit for awhile. The walk out to the fort is also a pleasure.

The Village is where you’ll find shops, pousadas and restaurants in quaint, 16th-century constructions, not unlike the Cidade Historica in Porto Seguro. But unlike the old village in Porto Seguro, the Trancoso Quadrado (as the main village square is called) is a place to pass the late afternoon an evening.

During the day, most folks are enjoying the many beautiful beaches below (like its neighbors, Trancoso is built upon a high bluff overlooking the sea). Trancoso is quite a bit smaller than Arraial d’Ajuda, with fewer establishments. Some prefer the quietude and minimalism of Trancoso–and find the establishments more quaint and inviting. Others find Trancoso a bit too high-brow, since it is frequented by Brazil’s rich and famous, causing the finer restaurants and pousadas to demand higher prices.

The main beach, Praia dos Nativos, is below the village on the north side and has most of the establishments, beach bars and activities. The north coast has long stretches of sand and surf and are great for swimming–especially at low tide. These are also terrific beaches for unforgettable sunrise and sunset walks. The farthest you probably want to walk to the north is to Praia Rio da Barra, which is one of the prettiest beaches in the area, at the mouth of the Barra River. The river bends a few times before it reaches the ocean, where it opens into a large lake. The entire scene is lined with palm trees and there are few visitors here during low season. Still, there is a beach kiosk to help you refuel for the walk back. It’s about four kilometers from the villa (1.5 hours walk) and you’ll pass some lovely coconut groves along the way (but few or no beach kiosks).

To get down to the northern beaches, just take the road on the left side of the village (as you enter the town) and cut through to the ocean at Praia dos Nativos. You’ll see the signs. Unfortunately, this little walk downhill can be annoying, due to the many badly mannered drivers going back and forth along this dirt road. If you’re sensitive to dust and easily angered by rudeness, then take a taxi to the beach. A motorcycle taxi is a fun option.

After the river, you walk onto an excellent stretch of beach–with warm, blue water and medium-sized waves. This was once a nudist beach, known as Praia do Nudismo. Today you might come across a few people looking to revitalize the practice (fique a vontage, ok?) but mostly it’s just a great place to swim and get some sun. At the far end of this beach is the best beach kiosk on the coast, the Pé Na Praia barraca. It has an excellent position on the beach with plenty of wooden chairs, hammocks, and places to lay out on a straw mat or sit and sip a cold one. They usually have some kind of electronic groove music going, which puts you in a great, relaxed mood (or maybe that’s the beer).

If you walk further south, you won’t come across anything but lovely sand and surf for about five kilometers. This is a good place to get away from the crowd. There are reefs just off shore in this area, and the beach is slightly murky with seaweed and kelp (evidence of the reefs). You can go snorkeling out in these waters and in peak season, you will find groups of people doing just that–on some excursion or other. It doesn’t look so inviting from the beach around the point (called Ponta de Itapororoca), but once you get out beyond the barrier reefs, you’ll understand the attraction. Again, there are no kiosks around this area until you get all the way to Praia Jacumã, where you’ll find some great beach bars at the Jacumã coconut plantation. There are also more natural tide pools for snorkeling at jacumã and boats to take you out.

If you don’t like the idea of walking on your own all the way to Jacumã to go snorkeling, then join an excursion from Trancoso or Arraial d’Ajuda that visits these pools. Alternatively, you can take a taxi or bus from Trancoso directly to Jacumã to spend the day there. South of Jacumã are the very sought-after Praia Curuípe and Praia do Espelho, which receive visitors from Porto Seguro excursions. If you get to Jacumã, you can walk to these two beaches in about 30 minutes.

To get to the southern beaches from the village, take the trail that leads from the right side of the Quadrado down until you reach the sand and surf. You can’t miss it.

The Super-Barracas

The super-barracas host all kinds of activities: most notably, they have continuous stage shows going (from morning to sundown), featuring different types of music and dancing (see sidebar on Axé Group Dancing). The have several environments for drinking and eating, including service on the sandy beach where there are plenty of lounge chairs and shade umbrellas. The activities spill out onto the beach and even to the ocean where you can usually partake of water sports, like kite surfing and banana boat rides. It’s non-stop, high energy and it’s all sponsored by the super-barraca.

There are three super-barracas on the north coast: Tóa Tóa is the first one, located at Praia Mundaí about six kilometers from town. Axé Moi is next, located at Praia Taperapuã about seven kilometers from town. The farthest is Barramares at Praia Barramares, about ten kilometers away. It’s difficult to say which is better or worse since they all have about the same kind of activities and attract the same type of large crowds during the day–mostly young Brazilians and a few scattered international tourists. The question is not which barraca is best, but whether or not you like the super-barraca scene at all. To best answer this question, its worth visiting one of these mega beach bars during the day. If you don’t like the energy there, you can probably find a smaller, cozier beach bar nearby, or (if you have a car or don’t mind paying for a taxi) continue north to the more charming beaches near Santa Cruz de Cabrália and Santo Antônio.

On weeknights, the barracas have a rotating schedule to produce super-luau beach parties. Each of the three super-barracas has a different night and they never overlap. They even coordinate nights with other clubs in town. The night scene is a mega-version of the day scene. They generally break out the main stage for the Axé dancing groups and get ready for crowds that number into the thousands during peak season. To keep the ugly masses out, there is a cover charge to enter the luau (around R$25, but women usually get a heavy discount). The barracas encourage you to purchase your tickets through a tour guide or at your hotel. This is partially to respect the vacation packaging system of Porto Seguro (see sidebar).

Praia do Curuípe and Itacimirim

A day at these beaches might not seem all that different from any other beach on the Brazilian coastline. Here, the scene moves along a bit slower than at the super-barracas and the beach kiosks are of a normal size, offering shade under the palm trees, cold drinks and decent lunch plates. The beaches here are great for swimming with small waves and warm water. Some of the beach bars available here include Mayumi, Ponto das Tartarugas, and João de Sunga (the largest, across from the Hotel Solar do Imperador). These are good beaches to retreat to, if you need a break from the super-barracas to the north.

You can cut in from the beach to the inland road at the Barraca do Sting or any number of other trails along the northern beaches. If you go all the way to the end, you’ll cut-in at the Pousada Aquarela, right at the location of the ferryboat to Porto Seguro.

There is a northern road that parallels the beach from Arraial d’Ajuda to the ferryboat. Along this road are numerous pousadas and a few interesting shops, restaurants, and bars. The best place to come in from the beach and have look around is at the Barraca do Sting. Just inland from Sting’s place is the cozy Santa Fe Hotel, with an excellent restaurant/bar (open to the public, of course). There are also shops and art galleries in the vicinity. A late afternoon walk along the northern beaches is one of the best excursions you can take in Arraial. The wind comes up a little and blows the sand around your feet, as the tide goes way out, revealing the shiny, sandy ocean floor.

It’s easy to walk from Mucugé all the way to Praia Pitinga, about 1.5 kilometers (30 minutes) away. You’ll cross a small stream that empties into the ocean and several beach bars. Pitinga is the location of the town’s most charming and luxurious beachfront pousadas, and the beach bars along the way are also slightly higher end. Check out the Paraíso Restaurant with its wooden chairs and large sitting area. Also the São Tropez Praia Hotel has a large area with restaurants and bars. You can enter from the beach or from behind on land. The Cabana Grande is the largest beach bar in the area, a younger cousin to those in Porto Seguro. This one also gets rip roaring during peak season and is mercifully silent during the off season. The best place to stop for a drink is on the deck at the Pitinga Praia Pousada, marking the far end of Pitinga.

A much farther trek (about seven kilometers) is the stroll to Praia Taipe and the Lagoa Azul. The lagoa itself is dry, but the sandy cliffs, called falesias, make for a striking scene. The beach here is one of the most deserted in the area and is well worth a visit, as it’s also one of the prettiest. This is about the final point to which most people care to walk along the southern coast of Arraial. However, a few daring folks make the 14 kilometer haul all the way down to Trancoso. You’ll have to cross a few small rivers that empty into the ocean, but otherwise, it’s quite possible to accomplish in about five hours with a canteen of water, a hat and plenty of sunscreen. There are kiosks along the way for filling up and resting your feet and you’ll pass the large Club Med establishment about halfway down. You can catch a bus or taxi back from Trancoso.

NOTE: If you like the idea of walking along the beach at night, be sure to bring a flashlight, as there are no lights to guide you (but for the beckoning moon), as the beach bars are all shut down for the evening. It’s perfectly safe to walk along these beaches at night, although you should be aware the some stretches will have plenty of water splashing in at high tide. At night, the walk along the northern coast is probably a bit more straightforward than on the south coast.

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Key:

1. Wide beaches in Alagoas
2. On the boardwalk in Maceio
3. The beauty Redinha in Natal
4. Beaches north of Recife
5. Arraial d’Ajuda beaches
6. Santa Catarina beaches
7. Ilha Sao Francisco
8. Beaches of Pernambuco
9. The Coast of Salvador
10. Porto de Galinhas
11. Maracaipe Beach near Porto de Galinhas
12. Dunes near Natal
13. Beachfront in Fortaleza
14. Arraial d’Ajuda northern coastline
15. Praia do Frances

Fernando de Noronha

Famous the world over, Fernando de Noronha consists of an archipelago of 21 islands, the largest of which is the namesake. It has been the property of France, England and Holland and, because it was uninhabited, was a frequent port of entry for invaders into colonial Brazil. In the 18th century, a series of battlements were built on the archipelago to help stave off further invasions.

In 1988, a large piece of the island was transformed into a national park to preserve the flora and fauna of the island. It’s possible to visit the park and the various islands to see the sparkling blue water and amazing sea life. One of the most recognized characteristics of this island is the superb scuba diving available for beginners, intermediate and advanced divers. Visibility under water remains a cool 98 feet year ‘round, and you’re likely to see sea turtles, dolphins, sharks, and many other species.

You can take a hike or natural walk along the coastal paths or boat out to see thousands of dolphins swim in and out of the channels every day. You can drive a dune buggy around part of the island, visiting the many beaches and the few settlements there. There are approximately 2,000 inhabitants on the island and no more are allowed there, except by marriage to an existing resident.

Morro de São Paulo

One of the most festive islands on the Brazilian coast, Morro de São Paulo is a favorite tourist location, offering beaches full of beautiful Brazilians and beaches nearly deserted and uninhabited. Its close proximity to Salvador makes it a favorite get-away for those visiting the city. You’ll find traditional dance, festivals and food and plenty of beaches and island excursions to keep you busy for days or even weeks.

Morro de São Paulo is actually the name of the principal tourist town on one of the three main islands that make up the Archipelago of Tinhare. Like Fernando de Noronha, Morro de São Paulo was a primary target of pirates and invaders of the past centuries. The island’s principal fortress is in beautiful ruins near the entrance to the island and makes for one of the most pleasant excursions of the island.

The nightlife on the island is quite ample, especially during peak season, and locals get together with tourists to dance and drink until the sun rises. Then it’s back to the beaches to sleep it off. There are many hotels, inns and restaurants on the island, located in the village or on the three principal beaches, known as Beach One, Beach Two, and Beach Three.

Abrolhos

Located in the southern end of the state of Bahia, the archipelago of Abrolhos is a highly prized location for diving and snorkeling—said to be ranked among the ten best in the world. The water here is warm and transparent and visibility generally registers at around 90 to 100 feet. The entire group of islands (which are pieces of the outer rim of an ancient volcano) and the surrounding waters are a national aquatic park and protected wildlife area, harboring such wonders as giant rays, sea turtles and whales. You’ll also encounter a form of coral that is unique in the world.

Even if you don’t swim, a trip out to Abrolhos is worthwhile. There are plenty of sea animals you can see from the boat and areas that are only four or five feet deep. You can take a speed boat out for the day or a larger vessel for overnight adventures.

Ilha Grande

Brazil’s second largest island, Ilha Grande is also one of its most un-developed. A small and charming central village known as Abraão is your point of entry and likely resting place with numerous inns and hotels to choose from. You can walk around the town easily and visit the many different shops and restaurants, specializing in seafood, of course. When you’re ready to visit the outer reaches of the island, you can choose between hiking and boating. Hikes range from a single day to beaches in the near vicinity to multi-day trips to the outer shores. Single and multi-day boat trips are also available, including excursions for diving and snorkeling. Fortunately, some of the best beaches and diving locations are not too far from the village, so hiking is a popular option.

No cars are allowed on the island, so the entire place is tranquil and very rustic. A favorite excursion is out to the pristine beaches of Lopes Mendes, said to be one of Brazil’s most beautiful beaches. But the beaches you pass on the way to Lopes Mendes are just as compelling in this guide’s opinion. You get to Ilha Grande from the coastal city of Angra dos Reis on the coast of Rio de Janeiro.

Ilhabela

Ilhabela is the local name for the Island of São Sebastião, off the coast of São Paulo state on the way to Rio de Janeiro about 45 kilometers from São Paulo city. The island is divided into the “inner” and “outer” experiences, the inner being more populated and touristy and where you’ll find all the hotels and restaurants and many of the beaches. There are numerous inns and beach cabanas, camp grounds, and homes to rent.

Ilhabela is a favorite location of the Paulistas (residents of São Paulo) who go there to practice boating, tanning, and beach sports on weekends. There are some very popular diving spots all around the island, including a number of shipwrecks to explore. In the middle of the island is a rustic piece of the Atlantic Forest, with animals and strange plant life to prove it. You can find wonderful trails with incredible views from the island’s peaks. In most cases, you’ll be rewarded with clear, cool waterfalls along the way.

Access to the island is via ferry boat that takes off from the city of São Sebastião several times per day.

The Road from São Paulo to Rio de Janeiro
The road between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo is one of Brazil’s most traveled tourist destinations. Called the Rio-Santos road, the trip is perfect for many visitors who want to see the big cities of Brazil, some excellent beaches and tropical islands (including some that are touristy and full of beautiful people and others that are remote and deserted), and also a touch of the interior. You can rent a car and take the trip at your own pace, visiting the highlights that you set for yourself. In this article, I’ll try to answer some of the most common questions about this trip. I’ll add more as they come in, so this will be a work-in-progress.

The road between São Paulo and Rio is a popular road trip for tourists and Brazilians alike. It’s about 450 kilometers of coastline and takes you past some of the most beautiful beaches and beach towns in the country. The water gets greener and warmer the closer you get to Rio, but the beaches near São Paulo are not to be missed either — for their water sports, beautiful people and great boardwalks.

The road itself is in good shape, but it can get a bit windy along the mountain passes around the São Sebastião area, so take it slowly and carefully and enjoy the time.

While you’re in Sao Paulo, you can take the Walking Tour of Downtown Sao Paulo. Also, I’ve listed some good hotels in the Sao Paulo area in my article on The Accor Hotels. I always suggest starting in São Paulo and driving to Rio. This way, your trip will keep building and building to the end, saving the most spectacular for last. There are so many things to see and do between these great cities, that you may want to make the trip twice to get it all in. You wouldn’t be the first.

Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a lot of violence in this region?
Outside of Rio, there is nothing excessive and even inside Rio, the problems are mostly located in the Copacabana Beach area. Of course, you should always be aware and careful. Keep a minimum amount of cash on you and no significant valuables. Split up your cash and when you drive, leave as much in the trunk as possible (your bags, valuables, and credit cards).

What are THE best places for snorkeling?
I’d say that the top snorkeling on this trip would be around Ilha Grande and Angra dos Reis. It’s hard to say which of these is best, but I can say that Ilha Grande requires a bit more time and commitment. If you have the time, it’s totally worth it. If you choose Angra, then be sure to take a boat out to the islands AWAY from the mainland — so you get away from the Angra pollution. That said, there are some wonderful dives there.

The next best place would be the north coast around Ubatuba. There are some wonderful waters there and you can charter boats out for great snorkeling.

How are the roads in this area?
The BR freeways (called rodovias) are much faster and in better condition than the small roads. Also, this is a mountainous region and the roads can be difficult at times. I suggest sticking to the main estradas that will offer the smoothest ride. However, the roads in general in this area are well maintained and generally problem free. You have to get used to maneuvering in two-lanes of traffic is all.

How do Ilha Grande, Paraty, and Buzios compare?
These are all different from one another and Buzios is completely different than just about any other place on the coast. It’s a great place for adults and offers a lot of shopping, modern facilities, great hotels and lots of beaches — both crowded and secluded. You also have some economical options for hotels, so it’s not only for the spenders. A lot of Brazil’s TV stars can be seen at Buzios.

Paraty is an excellent place for tourists and provides a bit of the historical side of Brazil along with beaches and great restaurants. It’s a small town, but the best beaches are outside of town to the north or south. Don’t miss the waterfalls in Paraty, as well as the boat trips.

Ilha Grande is the most remote of the three. There are very few cars on this huge island and only one major town — called Abraao (Abraham). The town, hotels, and eating establishments are all very quaint and you can walk around town with no problem to take it all in. There are beaches all around the island and you can hike or take boats out to them. Some of these are among the prettiest in Brazil and offer great snorkeling, diving, and other fun activities. You really feel the island experience at Ilha Grande because of the lack of cars.

What is the best rental car service to use there?
Here’s a comment from one of my readers about that…”We used Unidas rent-a-car and they were great and about 50% cheaper than Hertz or Avis (12 day rental of a Chevy Meriva was $500, including insurance). It was practically new and they gave us an 800 number to call in case of problems. We booked them through Autoeurope.com.”

Is it worth going inland to Teresopolis?
Absolutely! Teresopolis has a lot to offer and is completely different than the coastal sights. The feature there is hiking and rafting and you should probably set this up ahead of time — like while you’re in Buzios or Rio — with one of the agencies that offer packages or trip planning. For most people 48 hours is enough, but if you’re really into hiking and rock climbing, you might want more.