Rio de Janeiro: Planning Your Time
Rio (March 21, 2010)
The images that come to mind when one thinks of Rio de Janeiro are many and varied, but one that always seems to appear is of the famous Copacabana boardwalk and the Copacabana Palace Hotel with its luxurious interior and high-rolling clientele. In its heyday, Copacabana (and the hotel in particular) was the scenario of several Hollywood films, not to mention the playground of the actors themselves. Today, the Copacabana Palace remains the city’s finest hotel, sitting majestically overlooking the action on the boardwalk. Beautiful women in the latest bikini fashions, athletes playing volleyball or demonstrating Capoeira on the sand, people jogging and cycling and tourists from all nations congregate on the boardwalk to participate in the scene.
Then, like a director overlooking this stage, stands the Cristo Redentor high up on the Corcovado peak. To his left is the great historical center of town with a myriad of monuments and historical buildings from the glorious days of the 19th century, when Brazil was rich from the coffee boom and still bathing in the aftermath of the great gold rush of the 18th century. The 19th century brought many changes to Brazil, including its independence from Portugal and the end of its monarchy and formation of the Republic. All this happened right here in Rio de Janeiro. To the Cristo’s right is the famous Ipanema Beach, birthplace of Bossa Nova and home to many of the country’s rich and famous. All this history is present here in Rio…in the buildings, in the landscape and in the people themselves, who incorporate the traditional aspects of the city, while also encouraging its more modern, democratic traditions.
Not the least of these more democratic traditions is the popular festival of Carnaval, as much associated with Rio de Janeiro as Copacabana is. Carnaval is characterized by parades of highly costumed (or nearly naked) mulatas dancing to Samba rhythms, followed by elaborate floats that reach up to three or four stories tall, sparkling along the parade rout. There are also many private galas and small, neighborhood festivities.
Over the years, Rio has not ceased to attract people from all over the world. Surfers come to join a great community of like souls who practice on the many great beaches in town and to the south; artists come to setup their ateliers in the bohemian neighborhoods and wealthy playboys and debutantes continue to make Rio their home. Undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest cities, Rio de Janeiro, like Paris, Rome, or London, is a place of dreams and fantasies.
You’ll find Rio to be pleasant all year long, but the best time to visit is in the months leading up to and including summertime, from September to March. The rainy season begins around the end of February, but really hits in March and April.
Planning Your Time
With Rio’s de Janeiro’s recent bouts of violence and its overall reputation for crime, travelers are spending less and less time here than they used to. That’s a shame, because Rio is loaded with natural beauty, history, culture and attractions that continue to make this one of the world’s great cities. Some travelers are so enthralled by Rio, they return here over and over to spend their vacations. But if you’re set on breezing through Rio de Janeiro, it is possible to see most of the city’s highlights in about three days. That may not sound like much for a city this abundant, but remember that Rio de Janeiro is relatively small and compact and there are only three principal areas that attract visitors: this historic downtown, Copacabana, and Ipanema (unless you’re a surfer, in which case, you’d have to include Barra de Tijuca as a fourth). If you set yourself up in the Glória or Lapa neighborhood (where you can find reasonably-priced hotels) you’ll be close to the metro line and will be able to access just about everything in the city with ease. On the other hand, some of the hotels in Copacabana may provide the kind of luxury experience you’re looking for.
With that in mind, you’ll want to spend part of your time checking out the historical sites in the old downtown area. Some of the 19th century palaces, museums, and even coffee shops are spectacular. Take an afternoon walk along the Copacabana boardwalk and be sure to hit the high points (literally) of the city: the gondola to Pão de Açúcar and the view from the Cristo monument on Corcovado Mountain. These may require taxis to get to, since they lie just outside the main areas. Spend your evenings in Ipanema and Leblon with perhaps a happy hour in the Cinilândia area downtown. If you want to party, then a night in Lapa should probably be on the agenda. If you have a week to spend in Rio, then you’ll be able to relax on the beach, take a walk in the park, or go on a guided tour of a favela. If you like to shop, then you should reserve a day for those activities too.
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