Arraial d’Ajuda: Northern Beaches

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Walking up along the northern beaches is a must while you’re in Arraial. First, the beaches themselves are long and excellent for swimming–with clear, warm water that is generally shallow and calm. Plus, there are kiosks spread at intervals all along this part of the coast, many associated with some pousada or other (but the kiosks are always open to the public, so make yourself at home or, as the Brazilian’s say, fique a vontage). Some women even go topless on these beaches. The walk all the way to the top, which is marked by the Pousada Aquarela, is about six kilometers (two hours walking). Along the way, you’ll pass the Arraial Ecoparque, which has very little “eco” about it. It’s really just a huge water park with slides and attractions marketed to Brazilians visiting Porto Seguro on vacation packages. If you like the idea of exhilarating water slides, then check it out (you have to enter from the road on the other side). You’ll also pass the Praia do Delegado, which is full of beach barracas, chiefly, the legendary Barraca do Sting, which is an excellent choice for sitting and sipping a cold coconut water or something stronger. The beach in front of his barraca is an excellent choice for swimming, as the water is shallow and calm there. If Sting himself is around, you’ll see why he got his nickname; as he does, indeed, resemble the famous pop star. He serves great fish lunches and organizes boating excursions up the Santa Cruz River.

You can cut in from the beach to the inland road at the Barraca do Sting or any number of other trails along the northern beaches. If you go all the way to the end, you’ll cut-in at the Pousada Aquarela, right at the location of the ferryboat to Porto Seguro.

There is a northern road that parallels the beach from Arraial d’Ajuda to the ferryboat. Along this road are numerous pousadas and a few interesting shops, restaurants, and bars. The best place to come in from the beach and have look around is at the Barraca do Sting. Just inland from Sting’s place is the cozy Santa Fe Hotel, with an excellent restaurant/bar (open to the public, of course). There are also shops and art galleries in the vicinity. A late afternoon walk along the northern beaches is one of the best excursions you can take in Arraial. The wind comes up a little and blows the sand around your feet, as the tide goes way out, revealing the shiny, sandy ocean floor.