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Food & Shopping in Minas Gerais

The interior state of Minas Gerais is one of Brazil’s greatest travel regions. It is rich in history and culture and offers a glorious look at some of the most Brazilian festivals, foods, and fashions. The area is mountainous with plenty of rivers and waterfalls and many of the old, colonial towns still look like they did in the 1700s during Brazil’s great gold rush, known as the gold cycle. These colonial towns are the heart and soul of the region and any trip here requires a visit to one or two of them, at least.

But first things first. Let’s talk shopping! This is one of the best shopping regions in the country and I’ve provided an overview of some great shopping areas and items in this article: Shopping Highlights in Minas Gerais.

Since most people begin their visits to Minas in the capital city of Belo Horizonte, I’ve also posted some B.H. restaurant listings and reviews, including a great spot for lunch (see Family Focusing on Food) and an elegant dinner option (see Vecchio Sogno).

Check back for more interesting additions to this section. If you have ideas of your own, send them to me in an email.

Boa viagem!

Review of Vecchio Sogno Restaurant in Belo Horizonte, Brazil

Fine Dining at the Foot of City Hall

When in Belo Horizonte, most people end up spending much of their time in the Savassi and Lourdes areas, two of the more “noble” neighborhoods of the city, where plenty of food and shopping options are available for the choosing. Not far from these culinary centers is the reputed Vecchio Sogno. When you’re ready for something unique and elegant in the gastronomical arts, make a reservation at Vecchio Sogno in the Praça da Assembleia, the City Hall of Belo Horizonte.

About Vecchio Sogno

The restaurant is the passion of chef-owner Ivo Faria, award winning chef of national repute, having studied under Lucien Iltis, chef to Brazilian president Juscalino Kubitschek of the 1960s “bossa nova” era, and head chef at the Copacabana Palace. After further studies in Switzerland, Ivo returned to Brazil and eventually opened his dream restaurant, Vecchio Sogno (meaning old dream). The signature of its creator comes through in its atmosphere and its dishes, both demonstrating the artist’s touch.

The Food

Basing his menu on Italian cuisine, Chef Ivo is wonderfully inventive. He works with both imported and local ingredients to make such creations as:

• salmon spinach cakes.
• ricotta tortelli with lamb leek sauce.
• shrimp in mushroom mango sauce with potatoes and spinach.

Naturally, the pastas are all made fresh and the meats and poultry are Brazil’s premium quality. Speaking of premium quality, Vecchio Sogno keeps a temperature-controlled wine cellar with domestic and international wines, a full bar, and a dessert menu featuring mousse and Crème Brulée, among other morsels. The integrity of the place is demonstrated everywhere, but especially in its semi-open kitchen, where a dozen culinary technicians work in unison as they have done since the restaurant’s opening in 1995.

Comments

I visited chef Ivo Faria one afternoon, toured the facilities, peeked into the wine cellar and photographed the cooks working their magic. Afternoons, are relaxed and quiet, but the place really begins to cook at happy hour and beyond. I was able to sample my early dinner of ricotta tortelli in lamb leek sauce. The food was artistically cooked and presented and the service was first-rate. This is an excellent place for a business dinner or elegant social dining experience — not necessarily for those interested in a wild night out.

Details

• Hours: Vecchio Sogno opens for lunch at 10am and continues until the last customer leaves. The Dinner menu begins around 6pm.
• Prices: Plates range from $20 to $50 per person.
• Getting There: Rua Martim de Carvalho 75, Praça da Assembleia in Santa Agostinho neighborhood. Take a taxi to the Praça da Assembleia, about 10 minutes from downtown.
• Contact: 31-3292-5251 or www.vecchiosogno.com.br or email: vecchio@vecchiosogno.com.br
• Special Notes: There is a salon for non-smokers and spaces for large groups.

Shopping Highlights in Minas Gerais

What to Buy and Where to Buy It

Minas is a great place for shopping and if you know what to look for and where to look for it, you can find some of Brazil’s best prices. Specialties in the area are, of course, the items that are made or found there – most of which have been part of the regional culture for hundreds of years. Here’s a summary to get you started.

Jewels that Shine Like the Sun

Minas Gerais got its name because of the gold and stone mines that abound in the area. It’s what made the place what it is today and many of those mines are still in operation and pounding out plenty of precious product. The best place in the entire region is the city called Valadares, in the north of Minas Gerais. This city is closest to some of the major stone trading centers in the country. If you’re serious about stones, then Valadares is the place for you. But don’t expect a lot of tourist activities there. For a better blend of shopping and sight seeing, the next choice is certainly Ouro Preto, once the gold and jewel capital of Brazil (and probably the world at the time). A close third place goes to the town of Diamantina, a wonderful historical village and home to many diamonds and emeralds. Diamantina is about four hours north of Belo Horizonte.

Cachaça, Brazil’s Fire Water

The Central Minas Region is famous all over Brazil for producing some of the country’s best cachaça – the clear or yellow sugarcane alcohol that is Brazil’s distinct contribution to the world of drunkenness and debauchery. Actually, cachaça is to Brazil what vodka is to Russia or whiskey is to Scotland. There are good bottles and bad ones. Some of the best places to search include the bars and cachaça distilleries in Ouro Preto and Mariana, where you’ll find the Gota de Minas brand, among many others. You can also find many brands in the Mercado Central of Belo Horizonte.

Clothes and More Clothes

You’ll find great clothing all over Minas Gerais, but the best place, by far, is the garment district in the city of Belo Horizonte. Known as the neighborhood of Barro Preto (Black Bar), this district specializes in factory outlets and direct-to-consumer shopping parks. You’ll find all sort of jeans, elegant clothing, shorts, shirts, and dresses. You can also find all sorts of sewing supplies and yardage shops, in case you’re into making your own. Just take a cab to the Barro Preto district, about five minutes from the main bus station in downtown Belo Horizonte. Be sure to get some cash from the bank before you go, as there are very few banks there and many shops don’t take plastic.

Bikinis and Lingerie, the Intimate Clothing of Brazil

I know, bikinis and lingerie are clothing, but I thought they should have their own, special heading in this article. Besides, Brazil is famous for these items and Minas Gerais is one of the best places to find them. You’ll find great lingerie in the many shops lining the streets near Shopping Cidade shopping mall in Belo Horizonte. You can also find great deals on comfortable under clothing in the discount outlets along Rua Paraná, from the central bus station all the way to the Mercado Central (if you make it that far). This is a crowded, chaotic shopping scene in the middle of bustling downtown B.H., but if you’re up for the challenge, it’s worth the trip.

Outdoor Markets

The biggest outdoor market in the region and one of the biggest in South America is the street fair known locally as the hippie fair or feira hippie. It occurs every Sunday on Rua Afonso Pena, the main street of town about a half mile from the downtown bus station in Belo Horizonte. It starts early (around 8am) and ends early (around 1pm) and its c-c-crowded like you’ve never imagined! Be sure to hold onto your valuables as you wedge your way through the crowds and don’t hesitate to step to the side for a breather. It’s a wonderful slice of Minas culture and a good place to find deals on handicrafts and clothing.

Country Cooking Kitchen

They don’t make pots and pans like this any more. You can find clay and ceramic pots for oven cooking, plus stone wear, copper pans and iron skillets. There are aluminum pots and pans of every shape and size. The best place for these cooking contraptions is in the town of Cachoeira do Campo, just 20-minutes outside of Ouro Preto (heading toward Belo Horizonte). This is where many of the stone and copper pots are made and where you’ll find the best prices. You can also find these items in the markets of Ouro Preto, including the Stone Market or feira de pedras in front of the San Francisco Church, or igreja São Francisco. If all else fails, you can find most of these items in the Mercado Central in Belo Horizonte, but the prices there are a bit higher.

The Beaches of Brazil
A Photographic Tour

Brazil’s beaches are famous for being among the most stimulating places on Earth. Check out these photos and see if you don’t agree.

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Key:

1. Wide beaches in Alagoas
2. On the boardwalk in Maceio
3. The beauty Redinha in Natal
4. Beaches north of Recife
5. Arraial d’Ajuda beaches
6. Santa Catarina beaches
7. Ilha Sao Francisco
8. Beaches of Pernambuco
9. The Coast of Salvador
10. Porto de Galinhas
11. Maracaipe Beach near Porto de Galinhas
12. Dunes near Natal
13. Beachfront in Fortaleza
14. Arraial d’Ajuda northern coastline
15. Praia do Frances

Family Focusing on Food

Originality and diversity are the notable themes at Aromi, one of Belo Horizonte’s most diverse lunch spots. Using the traditional “a-quilo” buffet, Aromi is anything but typical with its recipes. Here you’ll find dishes from all culinary traditions, such as chicken and cheese crepes, pasta putanesca, or Mexican tortillas. You always get a choice of meats, plus specialty items like chicken pot pie or lasagna. There are always plenty of salad options and many special veggie dishes, like deviled eggs or salad with raisins and apples. Even the traditional Brazilian rice and beans are more spicy and savory than usual.

Lunch is reasonable at under R$15 per kilo (with some specialty items priced separately). You’ll probably get out of there for under R$15 per person and have a lunch you’ll remember for a long time. Located in one of the city´s older buildings (a colonial-style, three-story home) and easily accessible on Avenida Afonso Pena near Avenida do Cortorno, it has three floors of seating with plenty of space. However, some days it can get rather crowded and you’d do well to arrive a bit early. They offer a
discount for customers arriving before 11:30 a.m. The old building is quaint, but it lacks a bit of interior design. That’s probably because they’ve been focusing on the food. It’s a family owned and operated place and what they may lack in slick decorations, they make up for in sincerity and simplicity.

Compared to other lunch offerings around town at about the same price, Aromi is a clear winner.

Aromi
Avenida Alfonso Pena 3112
Open 11-4 weekdays and 12-4 on Sunday
Closed Saturday
Food Price Friendly Staff

The Islands of Brazil
South America’s Atlantic Coast Jewels

With so much coastline, it’s no wonder that Brazil has some remarkable islands to visit and explore. They all offer tropical flora and fauna, warm Atlantic ocean water and wonderful underwater adventures for those interested in diving and snorkeling. Here is a short list of some of the more popular offerings.

Fernando de Noronha

Famous the world over, Fernando de Noronha consists of an archipelago of 21 islands, the largest of which is the namesake. It has been the property of France, England and Holland and, because it was uninhabited, was a frequent port of entry for invaders into colonial Brazil. In the 18th century, a series of battlements were built on the archipelago to help stave off further invasions.

In 1988, a large piece of the island was transformed into a national park to preserve the flora and fauna of the island. It’s possible to visit the park and the various islands to see the sparkling blue water and amazing sea life. One of the most recognized characteristics of this island is the superb scuba diving available for beginners, intermediate and advanced divers. Visibility under water remains a cool 98 feet year ‘round, and you’re likely to see sea turtles, dolphins, sharks, and many other species.

You can take a hike or natural walk along the coastal paths or boat out to see thousands of dolphins swim in and out of the channels every day. You can drive a dune buggy around part of the island, visiting the many beaches and the few settlements there. There are approximately 2,000 inhabitants on the island and no more are allowed there, except by marriage to an existing resident.

Morro de São Paulo

One of the most festive islands on the Brazilian coast, Morro de São Paulo is a favorite tourist location, offering beaches full of beautiful Brazilians and beaches nearly deserted and uninhabited. Its close proximity to Salvador makes it a favorite get-away for those visiting the city. You’ll find traditional dance, festivals and food and plenty of beaches and island excursions to keep you busy for days or even weeks.

Morro de São Paulo is actually the name of the principal tourist town on one of the three main islands that make up the Archipelago of Tinhare. Like Fernando de Noronha, Morro de São Paulo was a primary target of pirates and invaders of the past centuries. The island’s principal fortress is in beautiful ruins near the entrance to the island and makes for one of the most pleasant excursions of the island.

The nightlife on the island is quite ample, especially during peak season, and locals get together with tourists to dance and drink until the sun rises. Then it’s back to the beaches to sleep it off. There are many hotels, inns and restaurants on the island, located in the village or on the three principal beaches, known as Beach One, Beach Two, and Beach Three.

Abrolhos

Located in the southern end of the state of Bahia, the archipelago of Abrolhos is a highly prized location for diving and snorkeling—said to be ranked among the ten best in the world. The water here is warm and transparent and visibility generally registers at around 90 to 100 feet. The entire group of islands (which are pieces of the outer rim of an ancient volcano) and the surrounding waters are a national aquatic park and protected wildlife area, harboring such wonders as giant rays, sea turtles and whales. You’ll also encounter a form of coral that is unique in the world.

Even if you don’t swim, a trip out to Abrolhos is worthwhile. There are plenty of sea animals you can see from the boat and areas that are only four or five feet deep. You can take a speed boat out for the day or a larger vessel for overnight adventures.

Ilha Grande

Brazil’s second largest island, Ilha Grande is also one of its most un-developed. A small and charming central village known as Abraão is your point of entry and likely resting place with numerous inns and hotels to choose from. You can walk around the town easily and visit the many different shops and restaurants, specializing in seafood, of course. When you’re ready to visit the outer reaches of the island, you can choose between hiking and boating. Hikes range from a single day to beaches in the near vicinity to multi-day trips to the outer shores. Single and multi-day boat trips are also available, including excursions for diving and snorkeling. Fortunately, some of the best beaches and diving locations are not too far from the village, so hiking is a popular option.

No cars are allowed on the island, so the entire place is tranquil and very rustic. A favorite excursion is out to the pristine beaches of Lopes Mendes, said to be one of Brazil’s most beautiful beaches. But the beaches you pass on the way to Lopes Mendes are just as compelling in this guide’s opinion. You get to Ilha Grande from the coastal city of Angra dos Reis on the coast of Rio de Janeiro.

Ilhabela

Ilhabela is the local name for the Island of São Sebastião, off the coast of São Paulo state on the way to Rio de Janeiro about 45 kilometers from São Paulo city. The island is divided into the “inner” and “outer” experiences, the inner being more populated and touristy and where you’ll find all the hotels and restaurants and many of the beaches. There are numerous inns and beach cabanas, camp grounds, and homes to rent.

Ilhabela is a favorite location of the Paulistas (residents of São Paulo) who go there to practice boating, tanning, and beach sports on weekends. There are some very popular diving spots all around the island, including a number of shipwrecks to explore. In the middle of the island is a rustic piece of the Atlantic Forest, with animals and strange plant life to prove it. You can find wonderful trails with incredible views from the island’s peaks. In most cases, you’ll be rewarded with clear, cool waterfalls along the way.

Access to the island is via ferry boat that takes off from the city of São Sebastião several times per day.

Hotel Florida in Rio de Janeiro

Great Lodging Between Downtown and Copacabana
Hotel Florida is one of Rio de Janeiro’s best mid-range hotels. Located in the Flamengo neighborhood, it’s close to the city’s metro line (for getting to Copacabana and Ipanema) and Flamengo Beach (for the best view of the bay). The place is traditional, but not stuffy…elegant, but not extravagant. The service is top notch and if you’re not set on being right in the action, this is a good choice for couples or families.

Accommodations

Like most city hotels in Brazil, Hotel Florida is a high-rise building surrounded by other high-rise buildings. It’s not a slick, modern building, but one of the city’s older options. That makes it a bit more quaint, if a tad dusty and worn. Also, the rooms tend to be small in the older hotels (although all too often in the newer ones too), but you can count on good showers (with gas-heated water) and clean, comfortable bedding. Florida excels at service and location.

The Area

You can walk around near the hotel at night and check out the goings-on in the area. There are casual places to eat and drink within walking or you can catch a cab or metro to a more distant outpost. The hotel is wonderfully located in Flamengo, once the home of Brazil’s government and strategically located between downtown Rio de Janeiro and Copacabana.

My Impressions

I stayed at the Florida Hotel with my wife and we enjoyed being away from the Copacabana and Ipanema scene when we wanted to be. It’s not exactly out in the boonies (in fact, my wife saw some famous Brazilian musicians there). There is plenty of local nightlife nearby and you can catch the metro during the day to the downtown area or the beaches. A short taxi ride gets you to the Cristo monument. The service was excellent and the rooms were small, but well kept. This is an excellent option for families or couples.

Details

Aminities: Gym, pool, sauna, bar and restaurant. In room: TV, air conditioning, phone.
Prices: From $120 to $200 per night with breakfast included.
Location: Rua Ferreira Viana 81, in Flamengo
Phone: 21-2556-5242
site:windsorhoteis.com.br

Accor Hotels in São Paulo:
A Hotel for Every Style and Budget in Just About Every Area of São Paulo

In São Paulo, hotels in the Accor network offer a variety of price and comfort options and always good service and management. They have economical options, business hotels, flats and luxury options. Wherever you stay in São Paulo, there’s bound to be an Accor hotel nearby.

See: accorhotels.com

Formula 1

The Formula 1 hotels are very economical. They operate on a philosophy of simple and streamlined services, from management and reservations to the interior design and furnishings. Reservations are handled by Internet or in person only and, given their cost-benefit equation, are always booked up. You should plan your stay at least two months in advance and more if possible. One price covers up to three people in the rooms and there are no phones or fancy features—just comfortable beds and good showers. Breakfast is offered for an extra price. There is a Formula 1 located right outside the Paraiso metro station.

Rua Vergueiro 1571
Paraiso - Sao Paulo
11-5085-5699
11-5085-5694

The Mercure Nortel

This hotel is located in the North Zone of the city, where the Anhembi Convention and Carnival center is located. This is also where the Expo Norte Convention Center can be found. The Nortel is a business-oriented hotel, due to its location in the convention area of the city, and, as such, offers exceptional weekend specials that even residents of the city take advantage of. The hotel has a terrific breakfast (included) and a bar that is packed during happy hours. The rooms are large and comfortable and some have kitchens and balconies. The hotel offers a beauty salon, gym, sauna, 24-hour service and transportation to the convention centers nearby.

Avenida Luis Dumont Vilares
Santana - Sao Paulo
11-6972-8111

The Mercure Jardins

This luxury-style hotel is located directly in the city’s high-end shopping and dining district. But the hotel is reasonably priced for its location. They offer self-service laundry, breakfast 24-hour room service. The restaurant at the bottom of the hotel is excellent, but the options in this neighborhood will probably overshadow it.

Rua Pamplona 1315
Jardins – Sao Paulo
11-5878-5500
11-3884-9226